The easiest and cheapest ways to see flamenco in Jerez
The holy trinity of Jerez: horses, sherry and flamenco. I doubt there’s another city on the planet who can claim rights to being responsible for three such iconic and distinctive cultural cornerstones. The Jerez equestrian phenomenon, with its 13th century Arab influences, predates the Viennese by a couple of hundred years. ‘Sherry’ is an anglicisation of ‘jerez’ – you can’t make it anywhere else. And flamenco was given us by the gypsies, whom Jerez welcomed with open arms nearly 600 years ago. Despite other claims throughout Andalucía, its origin and heart is here.
So it comes as a minor annoyance to some visitors when they discover that finding a flamenco performance in Jerez can be tricky.
Yes, flamenco ‘just happens’ in the various tabancos and bars throughout the city. If you’re in the right place at the right time you’ll be blown away by the seemingly spontaneous performances. But to be sure of seeing a show you must find one of those joints who organise regular events. Facebook and Instagram are your friends here. Most of these places, though, operate only on weekends, quite late at night, and not all year round. And, understandably, they’re not that cheap. You can pay between €18 and €36 to watch a performance. Is it worth it? Abso-fucking-lutely. Can you do better? Yes.
Tabanco el Pasajes
It feels like these guys are doing the city a favour, offering three 40-minute shows a day completely free of charge, seemingly for the benefit of tourists. Depending on the season, you can simply rock up and see a show at 2.30pm, 7.30pm or 9.30pm most days. The catch is that it’s standing room only – only the first couple of dozen patrons will get a good view of the stage. A clever mirror arrangement means that double that number can see and hear the show marginally indirectly. Get there 15 minutes before show time, grab a spot at the corner of the bar and order a fino. Tip for new players: the performers often have a brief interval after 20 minutes or so – don’t leave or otherwise give up your spot. Yes, you are expected to have a drink or three by way of payment, but if you’re like us that’s hardly an imposition. If the bar is full, keep walking and try again at the next show.
If time is tight and you simply can’t take the risk of missing out on a performance, you can book one of the tables at el Pasajes. Last time I checked it was about €35 per person, which includes all you can eat tapas. Ostensibly that’s not a bad deal, but the menu comprises simple traditional offerings, and an attempt to eat €70 worth of chorizo, cheese and mushrooms between two of you should not be made lightly.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/L7kWdRe7dcWAWTzu7
Reservations: https://tabancoelpasaje.com/reservas/
Tabanco Cruz Vieja
This is one of those places with shows only on weekends at 10 or 10.30pm, and not year round, but if you can manage to get there you’ll be thankful. The deal here is that while the show is free, each guest is asked to spend a minimum of €10 each on food and drink. The menu is everything that’s good about the region: a la carte albondigas (meatballs), fried fish and chicken, cheeses … the usual stuff, very well done, plus wine and beer at great prices. You can book through WhatsApp message (translate to Spanish first please), and if you do that a day or two out you’ll get a ringside table. Tabanco Cruz Vieja has become our favourite venue for when we have visitors. You’ll be asked to arrive by 9.15 to secure your table. It’s a great night out.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/WbiQWK57DxguJenU6
WhatsApp: +34 611 746 889
An honourable mention goes to Damajuana, the pub in a palace (seriously, check it out – it’s an awesome watering hole). They have live music on weekends, which while not usually full-on flamenco certainly portrays the gypsy vibe. And if there’s nothing live happening you’ll be treated to some 80s favourites over the sound system. Sometimes we go just for that.
Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Hnz2sTZxYRnUifeu9
Live music at Damajuana
