A blog about living and learning in Jerez de la Frontera
We did it! One of life's windows opened up, and we jumped through it with two suitcases and our cat and landed on all fours in Spain in early 2023. What follows is a nice and accurate account of the whys, hows, wheres and holy-craps of what we did and what we did next. You'll laugh, you'll cry, and at some point you'll probably go to the lavatory.
Most popular posts
So, you’ve moved to Spain. A guide for how to set up your new life when you arrive in this magnificent country.
Where to eat in Jerez. An interactive map of dozens of delightful tapas bars in our new home city.
How (not) to eat out in San Sebastián. Before moving to Jerez we lived in the Basque Country for 18 months. This post explains how to tackle the pintxos culture that has captivated generations of visitors.
Where to eat in San Sebastián. Don’t rely on YouTubers’ lazy lists of the same old places. They’re full of tourists and there are far better, quieter options.
Blog posts in chronological order …
Shut up and eat your plankton
The Netflix show Chef’s Table featured this guy called Ángel León, a crazy genius who lives on a bog. Well, more of a marine wetland, where he grows, harvests and cooks a whole bunch of stuff that’s presumably covered in flamingo shit.
How to fill out your NLV application forms
Each of our home countries is different and so are the various consulates through which we’re required to apply. In most case, however, the three forms we all need are the same.
How to catch a local train in Jerez
I love the Jerez train station because you can buy a beer and drink it right there on the platform. No last-minute dash through the crowd or arriving early only to stand in the blazing heat watching the clock.
We’ve bought a house, part 3
Just like that princess from the fairytales who could pee through a hundred mattresses, I’m a rather sensitive soul.
Akase Japanese fusion
For us it was the best demonstration yet of not only the superbivity of Spanish seafood range, but also just how different each of the fish tastes. It’s wild. Uniquely and unapologetically un-Japanese. Proudly Andalucían.
We’ve bought a house, part 2
This is the entryway to our new house, which we have the keys to, legally, and we can come and go from any time we like, as long as we remember to bring the keys.
Best place to live in Spain? How the j*der would I know.
Our favourite bars were full, tourists loaded to the gunwales with shopping bags got in the way wherever we went, and every inch of the beach was covered in bodies of varying shades of pale and circumference.
Always a concert in the square
Sure, it’s like listening to a Tasmanian devil that’s just been stung by something (if you’re not from Tasmania, think of a werewolf that’s just been bitten by a Tasmanian devil) but it was a first-rate spectacle.
Somebody stop Phil!
TV presenter and comedy writer Phil Rosenthal has joined the long list of film makers who over the years have caused culinary chaos in some of San Sebastián’s finest bars.
Cursed are the Administrators
In the last few months I’ve noticed a seismic shift. Having attracted thousands of followers, the admins of some Facebook groups have imposed a pseudo monetising gateway on the content.
“Learn Spanish,” they say.
In Australia virtually no one speaks Spanish. It’s not something we learn at school, even if we want to. To make it more difficult on us, our decision to move to Spain was sudden – we landed here a mere six months after we realised that the NLV was a thing.
We’re not in Oz any more, Ted
Carrying a screaming cat in a small bag through the streets of Jerez in 39-degree heat (that’s 102 ºF for you Yanks) is a hoot. Not. Ted is a rather hefty 6.5 kg (that’s 14 lbs for you Yanks), which doesn’t sound much until you contemplate that he had adopted liquid form.
Where are all the veggies!
If there’s one minor gripe I hear from visitors to Spain it’s that they’ve gotten ‘meated out’, as the majority of offerings on any given menu tend to be on the living-and-breathing side, at least until recently.
Blessed are the renovators
This is a photo of the living area in our new place as it was advertised. It’s the Spanish fashion not to waste anything as valuable as floor space or wall space, or even the internal volumetric space, such is their love of head-high chandeliers.
The fabulous Feria of Jerez
Just. Wow … is probably the best way to describe the annual Feria de Jerez. An area the size of 10,000 table-tennis tables (I’m not sure how big that is in football fields) …
How to order food in Jerez
Every region has its own food vocabulary (language, even) and it’s not difficult to look like a complete tit when you try to order food at any but the most touristy of bars. Here’s how it works in Jerez.
We’ve bought a house, maybe.
There’s not much that’s as stressful as trying to make an electronic bank transfer of €15,000 on your phone while beside and opposite you in a tiny boardroom five Spaniards are having a yelling match (i.e. a normal conversation) in both ears at once.
Hunting for houses in Jerez
We’re walking down Long Street in the centre of Jerez on our way to inspect a house for sale and we notice a young woman struggling to get a bike through the doorway to an apartment complex.
The yellow light of Jerez
Jerez has its own colour palette. Someone tried to paint it once. Ran out of yellow. In San Sebastian, Jess tinkered with watercolours and came up with some amazing stuff but this place is something else.
A (partial) glossary of food in Jerez
Yesterday I was at home threatening the cat and Jess asked me if we were out of butifarra. I said that I don't think so, but if you get caught short there are some tissues in the cupboard.